So Close But Yet So Far!

Posted on March 12, 2024 by Agingadventurer

The Wagah border is the only crossing-point open to foreigners for travel by land between Pakistan and India. I was there but didn’t have the proper papers. Instead, I enjoyed the boisterous ceremony that demonstrated both the competition and brotherhood between these two countries. Hundreds of people on both sides of this border attend this daily occurrence around sundown for the lowering of the flags.

On a trip to Rwanda, I climbed up to Bisoke Crater Lake and saw this sign telling me I was on the border of the Democratic Republic of the Congo. I had a visa because my tour was supposed to include a hike in Virungo National Park but due to a kidnapping and deaths a few weeks before it was cancelled. When the guide heard about my desire to go to Congo, he led me past the invisible line!

Then there’s North Korea. I had booked a tour from Seoul to visit both the DMZ and the JSA which would get me as close as permitted legally. Unfortunately the JSA part was cancelled because South Korea was participating in war games with the USA at the time and consequently my permit to enter was denied.

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See you on the Path

Posted on March 3, 2024 by Agingadventurer

India is considered a very spiritual country. Yoga is an integral part of Hinduism and meditation is one of the way Buddhists seek enlightenment. And both religions believe in karma and reincarnation. In visiting two of the most revered sites I saw pilgrims and devotees practicing generosity and other good works.

My first stop was the Golden Temple in Amritsar and is the pre-eminent spiritual site of Sikhism. It is an awesome sight with the healing water surrounding the magnificent buildings. It symbolizes brotherhood and equality. They feed thousands of people every day and lodging, if it is needed, as the Sikhs adhere to the principle of service to humanity.

I also was able to visit the Dalai Lama’s monastery in Dharamshala. Serendipitously, it just happened to be a day where one ceremony was the graduation of young monks and another was a once a year gathering to pray for peace!

Close by the monastery in Dharamshala is the Norbulingka Institute which is dedicated to preserving the Tibetan culture. Besides a marvelous museum they also teach artists and craftspeople their many art forms and provide jobs to over 300 Tibetans. They have an awesome bakery/cafe and beautiful rooms to rent for visitors who want to take classes, rest or enjoy the experience. I am lucky in that I was able to visit the Potola Palace in Lhasa years ago where they were able to display similar artifacts.

At one of these spots I had a brief verbal encounter with a tall dark stranger that ended with his reply, “I’ll see you on the path.” While one foot is still mired in the mud I am attempting to get in that lane!

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Above and Beyond

Posted on February 28, 2024 by Agingadventurer

The health benefits of gratitude enhance both your physical and mental well being. It was not difficult to be encompassed with this feeling when I recently visited an old friend and her husband in India. While I had not seen her in years, we first met about 59 years ago as Freshmen in college. Our life paths didn’t cross again for a long time but Facebook kept us up to date a bit. I knew she spent half the year as an ex-pat and that she welcomed visitors.

Upon hearing about her proximity to Pakistan and her experience with the famous Wagah border ceremony I pretty much invited myself to “stop by”. She was so gracious that she sent me a possible itinerary, offered to pick me up at the airport 5 hours from her home, and invited me to stay with them.

I was aware of Benjamin Franklin’s adage “guests, like fish, begin to smell after three days.” But somehow she was able to tolerate me, entertain me, feed me and made my week long trip most memorable.

Serenity was also a presence during my stay. The morning routine started with a guided meditation, followed by a congruous reading while we looked out on the white capped mountains. This peaceful respite and their unbounded generosity was indeed above and beyond.

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Happy New Year

Posted on December 28, 2023 by Agingadventurer

Hoping for another year of adventures in 2024. I always attempt to go to 5 new countries but every year it is more of a struggle as the ones left are either dangerous or a difficult journey. Malawi, Turkmenistan, Papua New Guinea, Pakistan and Bolivia have made the list for 2024. We’ll see, it’s a good thing I enjoy the planning.

This past year I found the following new destinations: Tahiti, Mauritius, Benin, Togo and Saudi Arabia. My trip to Bolivia was cancelled due to Latam but I needed to renew my passport anyway and wasn’t sure about getting it back in time due to the backlog and a possible government shutdown. My new one is here but currently EMPTY!

Two of these destinations helped me celebrate in a personally delightful way. When making my hotel reservation in Mauritius I happened to mention that it would be my 150th country. I was trying to share my excitement but turns out they were excited too! When in Benin I disclosed one day that it was my birthday and how fortunate I was that they served complimentary tea and cake every afternoon. The surprises were overwhelming!

I hope you have some exciting adventures this next year as well!

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Never Have I Ever

Posted on November 3, 2023 by Agingadventurer

I haven’t traveled for awhile causing me to spend way too much time watching TV and perusing Facebook. I often check those lists of accomplishments people post and see how I measure up. I’m not sure I’d call those bucket lists or a list that rhymes with bucket but starts with another letter. And I’m bored. I thought it would be more fun to list 20 things I’ve not done:


Flown on a private jet
Summited Everest
Completed a marathon
Caught a marlin
Bungee jumped
Shook hands with a sitting President
Been married more than once
Graduated college summa cum laude
Attended a Rolling Stones concert
Owned a pet pig
Baked a raison pie
Jumped hurdles in high school
Smoked a cigar
Had grandchildren
Went a whole day without cursing
Earned a PHD
Won a jackpot or big lotto
Written a novel
Owned an I-phone
Painted a self-portrait in oil
Built a house
Swam the English Channel
Surfed the North Shore in Hawaii
Traveled to Tajikistan
Been brought back to life

How did you score? On the other hand, I did eat at the World’s best restaurant of 2023!

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My Divorce From Delta

Posted on September 29, 2023 by Agingadventurer

Recently after an anniversary message congratulating me on our 37 years together all hell broke loose! I was with them longer than my other marriage. I was loyal, faithful, earned over 2 and 1/2 million miles and helped support them but what did I get in return? Well, we did have some good years, especially those 9 where they treated me as the Diamond I deserved.

They bestowed me with Tiffany vases, a couple of suitcases and miles that I could use to buy gifts for others. Sometimes I was upgraded to first class without shelling out any miles, coupons or money. I was happy to book all my travels on them or their partners.

BUT

They kept changing our contract. This last one was the deal breaker, the red flag, the evidence that they no longer wanted me. In order to attain my status I would have to spend $35,000 on Delta flights or hotels in 2024. I am a 76 year old single woman who is trying to live off her pension.

Just like my other divorce there are the phases one goes through: Shock, Anger, Bargaining, Depression, and Acceptance. I look forward to the freedom of not having to get to my destination on Delta, sometimes suffering through 4 to 5 legs just to fly their metal. I look forward to shopping for the best deal. I look forward to new experiences and maybe just finding a new airline to love!

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My New Passport Came Today!

Posted on September 14, 2023 by Agingadventurer

My old one didn’t expire until December of 2024 but I alresdy received an alert from Delta reminding me that international travel demands that you have 6 months validity remaining on this document or you don’t leave the USA!

Since I’m a little OCD and also a worrier I sent it in as soon as I completed my last trip. (In other words I met the requirements for my desired status on Delta.) I was concerned when I heard how long it was taking due to the pandemic and other staff shortages…and what if the government does shut down? I won’t talk politics but this passport is really important to me as it might very well be my last since I “like sugar and butter a whole lot” and I recently turned 76!

I paid for expedited service, double checked all the requirements and prepaid my rush mail service for the return. I sent it in on August 18 and received my new one a few days less than one month. YEA!

The back of this new one has a QR code which gives you passport information such as: sign it; when you can expect your old one to be returned; how to update Global Entry and suggests you register for STEP.

What a relief. I will start planning my next trip tomorrow! Need to dream a little bit first. And oh, they no longer do the extra pages.

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Wonderful Women Wayfarers

Posted on August 28, 2023 by Agingadventurer

I’ve always known that when I’m lost or confused a woman near-by might well be helpful. I realize that’s a bit of a generalization but many more times than not it has been my truth.

During my last trip to Saudi Arabia there were three instances when a kind woman made a difference. After traveling almost 40 hours I knew I had to get outside and wake up enough to see the city. Riyadh is not a walkable city but I wasn’t ready to get into a car just yet. A young woman behind the Concierge Desk came to my rescue. She suggested the shopping mall just a block or so away might brighten up my energy. When she saw how disoriented I was she suggested that she walk me there. She was willing to leave the desk unattended just to help me out!

A day later I was able to pay it forward. On the plane ride back to Dubai a young woman in a Burqa tapped me on the shoulder and asked if I would please change seats with the man behind me. She had a baby and toddler in tow and as he was dressed as a tourist in bermuda shorts she felt uncomfortable. For a brief moment I eyed the empty middle seat in my row but realized she needed me. I spent a few short hours helping to entertain her children with peek-a-boo and other non-verbal games.

Many hours later I landed in Boston, an airport that was not familiar. I found myself outside of security after going through customs and could not find any information regarding my next flight. I went back through security into the main lobby and was still confused. Apparently I was in a new wing and no one seemed to know where my next flight was departing. I asked at least 3 people before being told that I was in the wrong terminal entirely and needed to go to another one. I went back to my first location and requested directions to Terminal A. A female TSA agent heard me inquire and responded that she was on her way there to deliver something right now and would be happy to escort me! It was a bit of a journey so I more than welcomed her company.

And lucky me, I have my two best wonderful women awaiting me at home…well three if I count my dog!

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Will Saudi Arabia become the next Dubai?

Posted on August 21, 2023 by Agingadventurer

Saudi Arabia is a country that recently opened for women tourists and one that I didn’t ever expect to visit. However as rules have recently eased I jumped at the opportunity. It is still very conservative and I had to research just what I would need to wear. I learned that a hijab is a scarf covering one’s head; an abaya is a loose outer garment and the burqa covers from head to toe.

I discovered that as a tourist I would only need to be careful to not wear anything tight or opaque and make sure that my shoulders, elbows and knees were covered. The morality police have amended some of their strict dress codes and other social mandates that were usually implemented more harshly on women. In addition mandatory gender segregation and a ban on women drivers have been abolished. And the guardianship system which forbade women from travelling or even leaving the house without a male family member has been revised too!

The vision for their future under Crown Prince Mohammad bin Salman (MBS) include plans to build a modern economy not totally dependent on oil. A big majority of their population is under the age of 30 and everything seems to be technologically advanced, maybe too much so for this aging adventurer.

Tourism is being aggressively promoted, in fact getting my visa online took less than 30 minutes. With both their social and economic development in addition to the remarkable infrastructure and culture, Riyadh is on the fast path to the traveler’s bucket list. The skyline is filled with incredible buildings. And their national museums depict every era of their interesting culture.

Alcohol is still forbidden but I’m told they are experimenting with allowing it at a resort in the South of the country. But my hotel had beautiful cocktail and wine glassware and were happy to fill them with mocktails and alcohol-free wine!

There is an abundance of shopping too! Fancy malls and markets galore are popping up everywhere.

While these steps are definitely encouraging they still have a reputation for harsh treatment of any activism or dissidence. I’m thinking it is best to tread lightly while visiting.

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KISS

Posted on July 29, 2023 by Agingadventurer

What is it they say? Keep it simple stupid. Due to the weather, the staffing shortages, the numbers of people flying, what could possibly go wrong? Pretty much anything and everything.

Since the only two countries I’ve not visited in all of the Americas are Bolivia and Venezuela. I planned on a excursion to the famous Salt Flats in Uyuni. Venezuela would have to wait due to their very unstable economy. Safety concerns there are a little too risky.

Since I like to fly my airline and its partners this journey would involve 3 different airlines within a fairly tight time frame. I booked and paid for all of them, including hotels and a tour. I knew it was somewhat of a precarious gamble and sure enough Latam cancelled my flight from La Paz to Lima. I spent a few hours trying to find an alternative but nothing would allow me to meet my connections. That was clearly a sign. I CANCELLED. One of the airlines and one of the hotels would not reimburse me. It could have been worse. I had not paid for my visa!

Since I enjoy the planning almost as much as the actual travel I decided to try another destination, almost as difficult or maybe more? Saudi Arabia here I come…well maybe.

I will be flying on Delta, Air France and KLM….and that only gets me to and from Dubai! I then connect to a airline that is new to me: Flynas. I’m expecting some difficulties with the transit visa in the U.A.E. because all the websites profess something different. One offered to sell me a visa for $200 even though I will not be leaving the airport and will only be in the terminals for a few hours.

Saudi Arabia only recently opened up for tourism, especially for female travelers. My online e-visa application took minutes and the hotel in Riyadh is listed as one of the most sought-after addresses in Saudi Arabia. Yippee…hopefully I will file a great report in a couple of weeks!

King Fahd Road in downtown Riyadh Saudi Arabia on a sunny day.
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