Serendipity

Bhutan’s culture is riddled with legends, folklore and a colorful history.  So it certainly was no surprise to me to find it lucky as well.  From the images of famous monks mysteriously showing up on the rocky sides of cliffs to the phallic symbols painted on houses, one never knew what to expect next.   (both photos below show natural images of famous monks)

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The Divine Madman is a personal favorite, also known as Lama Drukpa Kunley, and politely called the “fertility saint”. He is credited for enlightening many with his crazy methods and his penis is known as “the thunderbolt of flaming wisdom”. I was able to witness two young couples who came to the temple honoring him in the Punakha Valley who were ceremoniously seeking intervention.

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While our tour included many monasteries and temples there was always something special at the end of the hike to the summit. The Nolanda Monastic School that houses around 100 young monks was both fun and uplifting! After looking in on the scholastic exercises, such as repetitive chants and debating, we were invited to tea with the head master. We sat for almost an hour, discussing current events, comparative religions and life in a monastery atop a high hill.

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On the final day of my visit was the hike up to Tiger’s Nest.  I think most everyone saves it for last as they are acclimatized to the altitude.  As I am an eager hiker, my guide warned me against running and to stay on the inside, especially if a horse and rider were to be passed. Apparently there have been incidents where tourists have fallen to their death.

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The path was tiring, sometimes precarious and quite scenic, when one wasn’t watching their feet.  I was on my way down and stopped for a minute to take another photo when my eyes took in a friend from Argentina who was on his way up.  I screamed his name in recognition loud enough for his friends further down the trail to come running up, thinking he had dropped off the side of the cliff or something.  What a small world indeed!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Culture Shock

The Bhutanese diet in higher altitudes consists mainly of red rice, some meat like chicken or dried pork, and  vegetables or soup with chili peppers and cheese.  It is a treat to eat the first couple of days and then even I tired of it a bit, especially when it was served at both lunch and dinner.  Our guide said their typical breakfast also included the red rice.  It certainly provides proper sustenance but our American tastes demand a little more variety.

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My companion on the Bhutan trip was not a good sport about the meals. His taste buds prefer processed foods without any nutrients. We were both surprised to see some of the ceremonial food offerings left on an altar in a Buddhist Monastery.

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Some of it was remarkably similar to my friend’s junk food!

Then there was the issue of slow traffic….there is not one traffic light in the country, not even in the largest city, Thimphu, the capital.  There are many cows on the road including the poor one that fell from the hillside above.

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And the fact that they don’t allow any technical climbing in their Himalayas, set my friend back too….when he told the guide how much money they could make with this type of trek Yeshey calmly told him that Bhutan wants to preserve its environment and its society!

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Barking in Bhutan

Dogs are everywhere and they seem to belong to everyone. They did not seem aggressive but I was warned about walking at night, not sure if it was because I would not see what I was stepping in or if they might be too frisky.  The government has an active sterilization and vaccination program attempting to keep control of the population.

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Dogs keep a respectable distance, but do not refuse a kind gesture or morsel of food.  The picnic lunch one day proved to be a bonanza for the nearby pack.  Yeshey, our superlative guide, took a few moments preparing all the left-overs by mixing the big pot with his hand and then dishing it out in separate mounds circumventing our blanket.

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And while many dogs roam the streets and tourist sites they often join a family pet at meal times.  One woman said her dog routinely invited eight or nine dogs over for dinner!

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The Humane Society International has a program called “Become a Street Dog Defender” which provides sterilization, vaccination and treatment.

 

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Gross National Happiness

How does one measure this? I am just back from a great visit to Bhutan and by my standards, it was one happy trip!

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While this is a philosophical approach to governing a nation, it seems to be working. The present king’ s father developed this plan with Buddhist principles in mind and not the Western way. He put forth the following goals: sustainable development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment and good governance.  While not a political analyst, I am impressed with what I witnessed.  They also soak up more greenhouse gases than they emit.

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I will be blogging about my full week of adventures in the next two posts. What a wonderful place!

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Out Back

I’m moved again this past weekend as my sister and brother-in-law want their house back. Granny flat, in-law suite, refurbished garage could all describe my new “digs” but my landlady refers to it as  “out back”.

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I was lucky to find a place in my old neighborhood, close to family and dog friendly. While this place is usually inhabited by the owner’s son, he is currently studying out of the city and hopefully for me, enjoying it enough to stay there for at least the school year. It definitely was designed with a young bachelor in mind as it has 2 TV’s, a full-sized refrigerator, a microwave and a small hot-plate. Now I have an excuse not to bake or to have people over for dinner!

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Only problem was that I sprained one of my toes….hopefully it will not hinder my Bhutan trek.

 

 

 

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Different Standards at Same Brand

This past year I stayed at one of the worst motels ever and one of the best….and they were both branded as Howard Johnson’s. The horrific one was during a road trip with my dog so my choices were limited.  The one I found was not even to my dog’s liking.  She sniffed both beds and whined.  The odors of urine and smoke hung like clouds over the room. The linens were stained, worn and stinky.  The night could not have possibly passed quickly enough.

A few months later, while in Shanghai I stayed at a Howard Johnson hotel…perhaps that was the difference: one a motel and one a hotel?  Anyway this one was impeccable, almost luxurious.  Interestingly enough, they were both the same price!

 

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the Five for 2015

It’s getting more difficult to amass 5 new countries each year…it is uncommon now to get more than one in a single trip. This year with tickets purchased already for the remaining months, I will have managed to do it: Lebanon (had I done proper research, might have flown or ferried to Cyprus), Dominican Republic ( in order to fly to Haiti I would have had to fly back to NYC!), Bhutan, Ethiopia and Azerbaijan (could not go through land borders when I was in Georgia or Armenia).

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Day and Night, Up and Down, Wow and Whew

 

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While not sleeping in tents, it was an adventure trip with few amenities on the trail: loo with a view, eating in the rain under a big pine tree with twenty people, sloshing through mud and snow, digging out rain gear and dry gloves all with a promise of a break in the clouds allowing spectacular lakes and mountains to awe us.  Oh, there was also the promise of the day’s end, arriving at some of Canada’s best hotels with food and wine that would delight any Epicurean.

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The Post Hotel has a wine cellar of about 250,000 bottles and a menu of mouth-watering delights making it difficult to choose until we were told we could have anything we wanted! First night alone: Tartar of Ahi Tuna on Avocado in Ginger Marinade, Baby Romaine with Goat Cheese Dressing , Sautéed Deep Sea Scallops with Chef’s Asian Sauce, Pan-Seared Miso Marinated Fillet of BC Black Cod,  and the Coupe Danemark House-made Vanilla Ice Cream with Hot Chocolate Sauce ….could hardly get my clothes on the next morning!  The next night I stuck to the special “tasting menu” which offered very small portions of many pleasures.

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On the third day, the clouds disappeared, moods lifted, the picnic lunches were enjoyed and we even found some decent outdoor toilets! All in all, a terrific trip to the Canadian Rockies with Backroads.

 

 

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Headed for the Canadian Rockies

Due to unseasonably bad weather (snow and rain) offering limited visibility, the group bonded slowly.  There were only brief glimpses of the mountains on day one and two; so instead of sharing the excitement of beauty and awe, we were trying to enjoy the mud, slush and the fact that we were hiking.

Thankfully on the third afternoon, the skies cleared and we celebrated with laughter, photography and silly antics.

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This was my second Backroads trip and overall it was exceptional.  The guides were incredible, the guests were all interesting and the hotels, food and wine were divine. I would highly recommend it : Hiking in Banff, Kootenay & Yoho National Parks. My only disappointment was in not seeing any animals other than small rodents and a few birds.  The goal of the staff was that we not encounter any bears and they accomplished that…although they did have a guest speaker who was a Grizzley expert!

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With my daughter, Molly on the shores of Lake Louise and up above Emerald Lake.

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Lost Luggage Not an Option

Carry on luggage is a must for me even though the rule of thumb means only one bag plus one small personal item. With some of those small regional jets the airlines are using to get you to the closest hub, that can be a problem, especially if you’re not first to board. (only one side of the plane has room for luggage)

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It is difficult to lose your luggage if you have it with you but I came close a couple of times. Once I accidentally left my bag in an airline lounge during a stop-over and realized it as I arrived at the gate feeling a little light. Another time they made me leave my suitcase by the small plane so they could load it underneath with the promise of me getting it as soon as I deplaned….well they  forgot to load it; however, I was watching out the window and let them know in time!

Many of the European budget airlines limit your carry-on by weight (keep in mind that would be in kilos)so that’s when you wear everything that’s heavy. I once flew an airline that weighed the passengers as well!

 

 

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