Victoria ShortFalls

Posted on April 26, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Poverty is rampant in Zambia in spite of  being a tourist destination. Unemployment is extremely high and government-funded education only goes through 7th grade. Given these circumstances I was pleasantly surprised to see how friendly the people are and what a beautiful unspoiled country they offer to their guests.

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The locals shop and or trade in the barter market downtown Livingstone where the vendors try to make their wares available to everyone even if it means selling only 1/4 cup of sugar. Many of the goods are used clothing sent from other countries and any extras are used to buy food.

Probably the biggest draw for foreigners is the incredible Victoria Falls and there are many eager salesmen standing by, hoping to get some of their dollars. Of course, bargaining has become the norm here and I hate it when my fellow travelers try to get the best possible price when so much is at stake for the locals.  It didn’t take long for the vendors to get me, the non-shopper into their “stores”.

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They would remark on something of little value that you had and ask you to trade, but of course, they would need extra money since what they had was of greater worth and handmade to boot!  I appreciated the effort and enjoyed this new game.  By the time I was done I had paid one guy to take my raincoat (meaning, I guess, that I didn’t have to carry it around anymore? or that I was truly a bad negotiator?) and another went home with my Merrill shoes as I hopped into the van barefoot with a small bowl.  My watch was also asked for but I selfishly refused only to leave it behind at airport security….karma….

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Zambia Side of the Falls

Posted on April 18, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Years ago (2001) when I did a canoe safari down the lower Zambezi I was technically in Zimbabwe except when I put my foot on the opposite shore.  However, as one who has collected countries now for over 10 years, I am trying to right those wrongs and actually spend at least one night before I add it to my list.

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Accommodations, food and overall comfort were quite different this time around.

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I didn’t see as much wildlife but stayed close to the resort…and being the wet season the animals didn’t need to come to the river.

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Victoria Falls is absolutely amazing and very wet! The thundering sounds and thick mist were breathtaking and I was told by a new friend that one really should take the helicopter ride in order to get a fuller realization of the power and the beauty.

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More About Maseru

Posted on April 11, 2016 by Agingadventurer

My second and third encounters in Lesotho’s capital city, Maseru, were quite different from the road block.  Needless to say I didn’t ask directions upon leaving the Ak47 toting police, just drove out of there quickly, hoping to find a familiar street on the map.

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Thirty minutes later we were hopelessly lost and just happened to see two men looking over a wall of an amazing structure I thought might be a hotel.  We stopped to ask our whereabouts.  Turns out they were employees of a South African diplomat who lived in that Tudor mansion and were most willing to help.  They called the Blue Crane B&B  and the owner decided it was best to come and get us.  Wow, what hospitality! Our two new friends delighted us with interesting facts about their country while we waited.

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Our accommodations were charming,  the staff  most helpful, and the proprietor drew  detailed maps to get us to dinner that evening and to help us see the most impressive sites the next day. Her personal history was a highlight of this trip. And I would be remiss not to mention that the pizza served at Primi Piatti, at the Maseru Mall, was one of the best I’ve had in over 120 countries!

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Almost Left in Lesotho

Posted on April 4, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Moments after passing through the border my travel partner and I were stopped at a road block by 6 policemen brandishing AK47’s . We were asked to get out of the car and present our declaration of the goods we had in our possession.  I was not aware that we needed this in Lesotho but knew what he was talking about because of an earlier trip to Mozambique.  I questioned whether this was necessary and he quickly told me I would either go to jail for 2 years or pay 2000 loti to a magistrate in the city.

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Then he asked to see the international driver’s license of my friend…as his USA license was not sufficient. Again he threatened us with another 1000 loti fine along with a third year in jail! My friend knew he had one and jumped back in the car and started emptying his pockets, suitcase and backpack, spewing things everywhere.  Meanwhile I tried to defend our position with the menacing uniformed officer. I had checked and double checked everything that was necessary for crossing into Lesotho and such document was meant for any imports that were for sale. Apparently not. He was insisting I pay up.  I told him I would go back to the border and get his paper.  He was not about to agree.

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A standstill ensued with me keeping my mouth shut and my friend still shuffling through papers when our adversary lost patience and told us to just get out of there NOW!

 

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A Five Movie Flight

Posted on March 31, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Needless to say, I’m a little exhausted considering my 30 hour journey home from my latest trip. The leg from Johannesburg to Atlanta was over 16 hours and allowed me to watch a few of the one word titles missed this past year like Joy, Carol, Creed, Spotlight and then to fill up the time added The Big Short.

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If that wasn’t enough excitement this was also the last flight for the Captain flying the plane who was retiring after 30 years with Delta. On our approach to the terminal there were fire engines on both sides of the runway with water canons bursting over the plane as his salutation.

 

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Long Lines

Posted on March 6, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Travelling today often involves lines that move rather slowly whether you’re waiting for security checks or to get a visa upon arrival.  I find myself trying to be first in line to get to that overhead  bin before they fill up.  Being the  impatient sort  the time drags on even more.

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However, I have discovered that engaging in conversations with those around me often allows me to discover some amazing stories as well as moving the line and the time.  It helps of course if you speak the same language although I’ve managed a few heart-to-heart exchanges with contorted facial expressions and unconventional signing.

Then you have the rules of queuing which are either adhered to or flagrantly ignored, depending on cultures, attitudes and the gift some people have of not seeing you even when you are in their face so to speak.  In such a situation I need to convince myself that there is a good reason for these violations in order to keep my patience in check.  I imagine my mother’s propensity for making up some great excuses for them and chuckle and let someone else take up the “fight”.

 

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My Favorite Reason for the ExPat Experience

Posted on February 19, 2016 by Agingadventurer

During the last U.S presidential election year I was lucky to be living in Panama. I received no robocalls, I watched entertaining TV (mostly reruns of  Friends and Seinfeld) and there were no 24 hour news programs that riled people up with constant “breaking news”!

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When I wanted to discuss politics I tried to do it in Spanish…hence there was little of that. While many of the people living there came from Europe, Canada or the U.S. and kept their citizenship as well as love of their country; the hating, the drama, the persuasive ads were not missed at all!

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I did keep abreast of issues and candidates and exercised my right to vote with the absence of the angst I am feeling today with about nine months of this left!

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If you see something, say something

Posted on February 10, 2016 by Agingadventurer

What do you do? The guy sitting next to me just got up and left his suitcase behind at the gate. It took a few minutes to register or I would have said something like “hey, you forgot your bag”.  Of course I didn’t speak his language but am sure I would have made myself clear.  I didn’t get a good look at him other than notice he had on sweatpants with a stripe down the side, dark hair that was a little balding and probably about 20 pounds over his ideal weight.

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After about 15 minutes I became more concerned, enough that I left that area just in case and debated internally if I should alert someone.  What is the protocol in other countries? This was a relatively small airport and not as alarming as Istanbul or Paris.  I looked around for a gate agent thinking this would be the easiest course of action.  There were policemen eating in a restaurant nearby….but I waited.  I looked for the suspect and thought I saw him talking on a phone about 100 yards away…looked at the suitcase again to see if it was smoking or something.  I don’t think Homeland Security will hire me anytime soon.

While I was still pondering my dilemma the man returned and actually sat next to his bag. Once we all boarded I made sure he didn’t run off the plane leaving his bag stowed in the bin.  “All’s well that ends well”?

 

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Albania, Late to the Tourism Trade

Posted on February 2, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Even though it is one of the last European countries to tout its natural beauty and good food and wine, it will be on the “circuit” soon enough.  The coastline beaches on the Adriatic and Ionian seas rival those in Italy and as of now, are still a bit of a bargain. While the energy sector is still controlled by the State, most industries are now in private hands, even though there is relatively little foreign investment. Tirana, the capital city, has even hosted Pope Francis.

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While there are some problems with infrastructure like polluted water and interrupted electricity they are making progress. I saw lots of 3 wheeled trucks but they also had solar panels and back-up water supplies on their roofs and sometimes oil rigs in their backyards!

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Due to unforeseen circumstances my trip to this country was cut in half. Unfortunately more time was needed to even begin to do it justice. Usually the first day in a new place I like to walk and explore on my own. Then I will do an all day trip or two out of the city checking out the most famous sites in the vicinity. It helps when UNESCO has enumerated them.

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I was left with only the option of Berat but took the back roads way there through villages and caught a quick view of the port in Durres on return. Just like Croatia, the land close to the sea has seen a massive increase in price and is filling up fast with condos.

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The castle and it’s town of a thousand windows or the white city are full of historic architecture and scenic beauty.

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A Torrent of Travel Troubles

Posted on January 28, 2016 by Agingadventurer

Sometimes a delayed flight can start an avalanche of problems. I sat on the plane while it was waiting to be de-iced, looking at my watch and the aggravation started. I only had a 50 minute connect time in Amsterdam but was somewhat reassured that we would  be able to make that up once in flight.

When we landed I ran to the new gate and was relieved to see the plane there with the jet-way still attached. Unfortunately, the staff at the desk explained that they had finished their paper work and I would not be able to board. Naturally, I pleaded, I almost cried but realized that they were not going to change their minds….rules always dominate in such cases.

They helped me consider new options but it didn’t look good. I had booked a flight on a different airline out of Istanbul going to Tirana, Albania. That is a no-no because they are not obligated to help when there is no “contract”.  After restating that fact several times I decided to go elsewhere for assistance.

The second agent was more helpful, booking me on the next direct flight to Istanbul in hopes that somehow I would be on a plane that actually landed 20 minutes ahead of schedule.  My hopes were slim but since I only had 2 days to explore this new country and had already paid  for hotel and a tour guide I decided to go with the glass half-full philosophy.

Bad news, good news upon arrival.  My plane was too late for the connection and the next departure for Tirana was already cancelled, meaning I would have 24 hours in Turkey without a visa; but Turkish Airlines did not charge me a change fee and one could get a visa upon arrival.

Not one to revel in disappointment I decided to get out of the airport and explore a new area of the city (I have been to Istanbul a few times before).  It took about four hours to get the visa, clear customs and immigration and find a hotel and transportation. It was too late to get food so I settled on the remaining candy bars and looked forward to the complimentary breakfast in 6 hours time.

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Albania was a pleasant surprise and I’ll detail my impressions in the next blog. The tour guide did his best to include 2 days of sites into one and to finish up by dropping me off at the airport for my return.

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Back in Istanbul, check-in for my continuation was difficult. Had to go through security and then out again because my boarding pass was not in order.  Long lines with few agents working caused more of the now familiar stress.  All I needed was the next complication: a nose bleed that would not stop, probably due to the cold dry air, the many flights, and the heaters indoors.  Leaving my place in line, I headed for the bathroom scaring people in my path.  I did find someone to get me some ice and I found a place to sit.  When the line thinned out I got my passes and a ride to the gate!

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