A Delightful Diversion

I recently revisited another San Diego neighborhood, North Park, a short drive from home. We parked a few blocks away in order to check out the locality.  One building caught our attention with their big sign: Lips (the ultimate in drag dining) advertising bitchy bingo….another time maybe.

Hipcooks was tonight’s destination.  One of my daughters had decided to treat both her sister and me to My Big Fat Greek Cooking Class. The instructor somehow kept a dozen of us busy around an island with cutting boards, frying stations and mixing bowls offering instructions washed down with Ouzo.

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We were invited to freeform; tasting instead of following a recipe, lots of pinches and eyeing. A few hours later we all sat down around a huge table and enjoyed the following: Baba ganoush (smoked eggplant dip), Dolma (stuffed grape leaves),Spanikopita (grilled veggie salad), a grape, haloumi and tarragon salad, marinated lamb chops with tzaziki and
Baklava.

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Love Conquers Hate?

Using the word “conquer” in that overused idiom is frightening to me. All of yesterday was scary, leaving me numb for awhile.  Orlando is pretty far away from me, but it’s somewhere almost all of us have been….maybe not to a nightclub but certainly to one of their many entertainment venues.  And to be told to pray or to love comes up short in my experience.

I listened to the news most of the day feeling unconnected and empty, watched as others were able to react appropriately with sadness and disgust.  How can this happen over and over and nothing changes.  I think  assault guns should not be available and I think that we have to be careful not to incite crazy people to take horrific action.  Simplistic, I know…

I looked for someone to help me put it all in perspective, for something I could feel. The Tony Award Ceremony actually helped.  Many of the participants offered their thoughts and sympathy but an actor, Frank Langella , helped me a bit more:

When something bad happens we have three choices: we let it define us, we let it destroy us, or we let it strengthen us. Today in Orlando we had a hideous dose of reality, and I urge you Orlando to remain strong.” The actor closed his remarks by saying, “We will be with you every step of the way.”  Later he told reporters  “I had to say something about it.” The actor, 78, said the massacre left him feeling disgust, anger.” I react to things much more profoundly than I did when I was 60, 50,” he said. “This violence, sense of madness that seems to be pervading this country is terrifying me.”

I was able to sleep, but now I’m awake again and need to find more answers….I was not able to publish my travel story this week.

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An Anniversary in Andorra

Nestled in the Pyrenees without an airport or railway, Andorra is the eighth of Europe’s smallest countries that I’ve visited. (Malta and Cyprus are in future plans) I took a bus from Barcelona that took just over 3 hours to the biggest “city” Andorra la Vella where I had booked a night at the Park Hotel for under $100. In the winter it is a ski destination and off-season there is great hiking and much to my dismay, a giant mall of thousands of stores offering tax-free or other discounted products.

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My idea of shopping is to hit a few keys on Amazon.com, so Andorra is something of an enigma for me. I understand that close to 10 million visitors a year, mostly from Spain or France come here for bargains.

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I enjoyed hiking both above the village and through it. And since it was my birthday I indulged in a very nice Rioja and some great bread with cheese!

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Barcelona by Bus

I had a chance to revisit Barcelona after many years and decided to deal with my jet lag by taking the on/off open top bus. I was too tired to disembark so I traversed the city changing buses only twice to include the green, red and blue pathways. I met other tourists many of whom were passengers from cruise ships.

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I stayed within 55 meters of Placa de Catalunya and found a great deli that I went back to more than once even though I was only in the city for 2 days. And speaking of food, I think Spain serves up some of the best breakfasts in the world.

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My second morning I took off on foot and revisited many of the buildings and squares that I had viewed from the bus. It’s a great city for people watching!

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San Diego’s Little Italy

“Ladies who lunch” was a thing in Hong Kong among the ex pats. I always thought that was worth exploiting! And how easy to do when you live in such a paradise, have lots of sisters and are retired!

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We’ve tried out new places in old neighborhoods and actually went back here two weeks in a row. First time for great fish and second time for Italian beef sandwiches!

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The Mother of All Mother’s Days

I’m still recovering from the excitement, indulgence and overall delectation of the day with my daughters.  Our original plans changed when one of their colleagues from work was to receive a special honor at the San Diego Padre’s baseball game on Sunday.  As their company wanted to make sure that the recipient was well represented by her family and friends they donated some very special seats.

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Did I mention that there was a pre-game brunch included? And a dedicated server when we were watching the game?

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Victoria ShortFalls

Poverty is rampant in Zambia in spite of  being a tourist destination. Unemployment is extremely high and government-funded education only goes through 7th grade. Given these circumstances I was pleasantly surprised to see how friendly the people are and what a beautiful unspoiled country they offer to their guests.

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The locals shop and or trade in the barter market downtown Livingstone where the vendors try to make their wares available to everyone even if it means selling only 1/4 cup of sugar. Many of the goods are used clothing sent from other countries and any extras are used to buy food.

Probably the biggest draw for foreigners is the incredible Victoria Falls and there are many eager salesmen standing by, hoping to get some of their dollars. Of course, bargaining has become the norm here and I hate it when my fellow travelers try to get the best possible price when so much is at stake for the locals.  It didn’t take long for the vendors to get me, the non-shopper into their “stores”.

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They would remark on something of little value that you had and ask you to trade, but of course, they would need extra money since what they had was of greater worth and handmade to boot!  I appreciated the effort and enjoyed this new game.  By the time I was done I had paid one guy to take my raincoat (meaning, I guess, that I didn’t have to carry it around anymore? or that I was truly a bad negotiator?) and another went home with my Merrill shoes as I hopped into the van barefoot with a small bowl.  My watch was also asked for but I selfishly refused only to leave it behind at airport security….karma….

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Zambia Side of the Falls

Years ago (2001) when I did a canoe safari down the lower Zambezi I was technically in Zimbabwe except when I put my foot on the opposite shore.  However, as one who has collected countries now for over 10 years, I am trying to right those wrongs and actually spend at least one night before I add it to my list.

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Accommodations, food and overall comfort were quite different this time around.

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I didn’t see as much wildlife but stayed close to the resort…and being the wet season the animals didn’t need to come to the river.

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Victoria Falls is absolutely amazing and very wet! The thundering sounds and thick mist were breathtaking and I was told by a new friend that one really should take the helicopter ride in order to get a fuller realization of the power and the beauty.

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More About Maseru

My second and third encounters in Lesotho’s capital city, Maseru, were quite different from the road block.  Needless to say I didn’t ask directions upon leaving the Ak47 toting police, just drove out of there quickly, hoping to find a familiar street on the map.

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Thirty minutes later we were hopelessly lost and just happened to see two men looking over a wall of an amazing structure I thought might be a hotel.  We stopped to ask our whereabouts.  Turns out they were employees of a South African diplomat who lived in that Tudor mansion and were most willing to help.  They called the Blue Crane B&B  and the owner decided it was best to come and get us.  Wow, what hospitality! Our two new friends delighted us with interesting facts about their country while we waited.

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Our accommodations were charming,  the staff  most helpful, and the proprietor drew  detailed maps to get us to dinner that evening and to help us see the most impressive sites the next day. Her personal history was a highlight of this trip. And I would be remiss not to mention that the pizza served at Primi Piatti, at the Maseru Mall, was one of the best I’ve had in over 120 countries!

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Almost Left in Lesotho

Moments after passing through the border my travel partner and I were stopped at a road block by 6 policemen brandishing AK47’s . We were asked to get out of the car and present our declaration of the goods we had in our possession.  I was not aware that we needed this in Lesotho but knew what he was talking about because of an earlier trip to Mozambique.  I questioned whether this was necessary and he quickly told me I would either go to jail for 2 years or pay 2000 loti to a magistrate in the city.

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Then he asked to see the international driver’s license of my friend…as his USA license was not sufficient. Again he threatened us with another 1000 loti fine along with a third year in jail! My friend knew he had one and jumped back in the car and started emptying his pockets, suitcase and backpack, spewing things everywhere.  Meanwhile I tried to defend our position with the menacing uniformed officer. I had checked and double checked everything that was necessary for crossing into Lesotho and such document was meant for any imports that were for sale. Apparently not. He was insisting I pay up.  I told him I would go back to the border and get his paper.  He was not about to agree.

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A standstill ensued with me keeping my mouth shut and my friend still shuffling through papers when our adversary lost patience and told us to just get out of there NOW!

 

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