Sweet or Savory?

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The last hour of a long red-eye flight, attendants came by and asked what I would prefer for breakfast, “sweet or savory”?  Please, airline food in coach? I laughed when I should have smiled. She was not particularly amused with my somewhat snide response.  I chose the fruit and yogurt; sweet, I presume.

A half hour later, I was holding my tray with a barely touched bowl of runny yogurt awaiting its  retrieval  when the lady in front of me suddenly declined her seat  knocking the left-overs out of my hands and into my lap. My last clean outfit, black no less, was dripping with white pasty muck from my chest to my knees. A few choice “” curse words””  emanated out of my mouth.  I quickly became see-sawed between two flight attendants, each hoping the other would help me as this was a BUSY time and people were to stay out of the aisle.  I lucked out with Martha who washed my clothes with me in them.  I smelled like a sick baby and was sticky as well.  However, when I landed in AMS I took a shower and put on yesterday’s dirty clothes with a pretty scarf to hide that fact.

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Turkish Rub-a-dub-dubs

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After paying for the bath and massage I was presented with a cotton “pestemal” (towel) and a locker. I discreetly eyed the others to discover the ritual and degree of disrobing. The much larger, much older and fully clothed woman in charge spirited my bare body toward another door. I entered it and was face to butt with about 50 women mostly laying on this colossal round heated marble platform, some on their backs, some on their fronts and some just sitting around.

Everyone was completely naked other than the workers who were adorned in  underpants. There were washing areas around the platform although most of the women were rubbed down right there on the group table by singing masseuses with skinny breasts hanging and swinging in their potent strokes. Big soap bubbles overflowed their cloths like a washing machine overdosed on detergent.

I approached the stone stage and timidly sat at the edge with my body wrapped securely in my towel until a person in panties moved me to another part of the stage. I geared up for my Old World experience but was quickly awakened when she asked if I wanted a bikini wax.

I politely declined, thinking that while this friendly and professional woman probably did not harbor any anti-American feelings, there was no need to give her an opportunity to prove otherwise.

Sound bounced off the high ceiling as the washer-women employees sang. With the floating bubbles, dancing motions and happy melodies it was easy to drift into a momentary dreamland.

For twenty minutes I was scrubbed and turned like a pancake on a griddle. With a spotless and sparkling body, I was paraded to a little marble sink situated around the perimeter where my hair was washed. Once again I was displayed on the slab as part of the people pizza to dry in the ambiance of relaxation.

Years later, the  cave hotel in Cappadocia visited just  this past year had its own hammam; one as experienced as me was able to bathe, scrub, steam and recline all on my own.

 

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Bust out of Burma

Burma 025Myanmar was amazing, hot, intensive and complex when I visited Yangon, Bagan, Mt. Popa, Mandalay and Lake Inle. It is one of the last frontiers proven by the locals who are still somewhat smitten by tourists.  The country and its people are another story.  Today it’s about hazards and happenstance.

A friend and I were staying in a bed and breakfast of sorts the night before an early flight to Bagan. We were on the third floor of an old house with its own staircase, peculiar plumbing and bars on all the windows.

Unaccustomed to the time zone and the barking dogs, the alarm clock was turned off.  Up, dressed and ready to go until we tried the door.  It would not open, not with a key, not with a push, not even with attempted unhinging.   The windows and the bars were also immobilized.

Daylight was beginning to break and all was quiet, including the hounds, giving me a chance of a boisterous soliloquy.  I was a little frightened, mostly about missing my flight, but claustrophobia was lurking.  I yelled “help” and then “fire” because  people  sometimes don’t like your danger.   My roommate hissed at me for waking up the neighborhood!  Thank goodness I ignored the  plea for politeness .

In what seemed like hours, a young woman climbed the steps to check on the racket.  She tried opening it from the outside with the key I pushed through the bars. Nothing. She then awoke the innkeeper who managed to take off the doorknob; to no avail. Finally her robust husband appeared and wasted no time in throwing his half-naked body against the door thereby creating a passable hole for us to get out with our bags and eat breakfast before the cab appeared.

Coincidently, the lock at a hotel in Mandalay also failed; luckily I was outside the room and could get help.

The last night of the incredible journey found me in Yangon again, this time, however, at a fancy hotel. My daughter, who travels globally for business was in town!  A small world indeed.

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Bye bye birdie

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Doha, Qatar boasts a beautiful corniche with its iconic oyster shell, an incredible Museum of Islamic Art, more new buildings than I could count and a section of their large bazaar that features an entire block of shops selling impressive falcons and everything one might need to compete in the sport of falconry.

As I am directionally impaired I was having difficulty finding this area among the rest of the souks. I serendipitously  approached a Qatari gentleman and asked him for help.  After seeing my frustration with his advice he decided it would be easier to have me follow him.  What luck, as he was a Falconer with 5 birds of his own (they typically run at least $350,000 each). The shopkeepers all greeted him with respect and familiarity and his clout allowed me to hold a few birds on my arm.

Seeing my delight he then took me to the falcon hospital surgery ward to watch a bird get new feathers implanted.  Apparently these birds are as well-traveled as I am, and typically come with their own passport for times when they compete in other countries.

 

 

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A game worth playing….

As a retired baby boomer, I embraced the opportunity to see the World.  I followed the path flown by many a frequent flyer and collected both miles and countries with a goal of reaching the top-tier of my airline’s program with incredible benefits.  I am trying to visit at least 5 new countries and amass more than 150,000 miles in a twelve month span.  I have managed to surpass those objectives for the last five years.  The blogs posted will include my experiences in these countries as well as the times entrapped on planes.Burma 210 (640x480) - Copy (640x480) (640x480)

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Ready, Set, Go

I keep a suitcase semi-packed. Travel is my passion and when queried I say my favorite place is the one I’m still dreaming about. The realities, when they come to pass, are always exciting, memorable and sated with stories. I hope to share some of those with you.

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