Will Saudi Arabia become the next Dubai?

Saudi Arabia is a country that recently opened for women tourists and one that I didn’t ever expect to visit. However as rules have recently eased I jumped at the opportunity. It is still very conservative and I had to research just what I would need to wear. I learned that a hijab is a scarf covering one’s head; an abaya is a loose outer garment and the burqa covers from head to toe.

I discovered that as a tourist I would only need to be careful to not wear anything tight or opaque and make sure that my shoulders, elbows and knees were covered. The morality police have amended some of their strict dress codes and other social mandates that were usually implemented more harshly on women. In addition mandatory gender segregation and a ban on women drivers have been abolished. And the guardianship system which forbade women from travelling or even leaving the house without a male family member has been revised too!

The vision for their future under Crown Prince Mohammad bin Salman (MBS) include plans to build a modern economy not totally dependent on oil. A big majority of their population is under the age of 30 and everything seems to be technologically advanced, maybe too much so for this aging adventurer.

Tourism is being aggressively promoted, in fact getting my visa online took less than 30 minutes. With both their social and economic development in addition to the remarkable infrastructure and culture, Riyadh is on the fast path to the traveler’s bucket list. The skyline is filled with incredible buildings. And their national museums depict every era of their interesting culture.

Alcohol is still forbidden but I’m told they are experimenting with allowing it at a resort in the South of the country. But my hotel had beautiful cocktail and wine glassware and were happy to fill them with mocktails and alcohol-free wine!

There is an abundance of shopping too! Fancy malls and markets galore are popping up everywhere.

While these steps are definitely encouraging they still have a reputation for harsh treatment of any activism or dissidence. I’m thinking it is best to tread lightly while visiting.

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KISS

What is it they say? Keep it simple stupid. Due to the weather, the staffing shortages, the numbers of people flying, what could possibly go wrong? Pretty much anything and everything.

Since the only two countries I’ve not visited in all of the Americas are Bolivia and Venezuela. I planned on a excursion to the famous Salt Flats in Uyuni. Venezuela would have to wait due to their very unstable economy. Safety concerns there are a little too risky.

Since I like to fly my airline and its partners this journey would involve 3 different airlines within a fairly tight time frame. I booked and paid for all of them, including hotels and a tour. I knew it was somewhat of a precarious gamble and sure enough Latam cancelled my flight from La Paz to Lima. I spent a few hours trying to find an alternative but nothing would allow me to meet my connections. That was clearly a sign. I CANCELLED. One of the airlines and one of the hotels would not reimburse me. It could have been worse. I had not paid for my visa!

Since I enjoy the planning almost as much as the actual travel I decided to try another destination, almost as difficult or maybe more? Saudi Arabia here I come…well maybe.

I will be flying on Delta, Air France and KLM….and that only gets me to and from Dubai! I then connect to a airline that is new to me: Flynas. I’m expecting some difficulties with the transit visa in the U.A.E. because all the websites profess something different. One offered to sell me a visa for $200 even though I will not be leaving the airport and will only be in the terminals for a few hours.

Saudi Arabia only recently opened up for tourism, especially for female travelers. My online e-visa application took minutes and the hotel in Riyadh is listed as one of the most sought-after addresses in Saudi Arabia. Yippee…hopefully I will file a great report in a couple of weeks!

King Fahd Road in downtown Riyadh Saudi Arabia on a sunny day.
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Ewe dressed in Lamb’s clothing

On a safari, years ago, I was unfortunately stuck with an English woman who did not like Americans. I believe she was referring to me and my compatriots in general when she complained about how we dressed. Now, however, I’ve finally reached her threshold for what I think is still acceptable for me.

I saw a dress on a TV star in a sitcom and thought, “I love that!” and proceeded to put in the name of the show, name of the actress and “low and behold” the dress I desired was showcased with info on where to buy it, how much, etc…. Of course, being proud of my acumen I ordered it and even managed a 15% discount. It arrived and upon try-on I decided to think twice.

It’s not like I was looking for something to be buried in since I’ve already paid for my cremation…and the fact that I have two dresses in my closet that have never been worn and maybe 5 that have been sported once, I actually returned the dress. I’m proud of me. All the hoopla about dressing up for flights in order to restore good behavior doesn’t really make sense to me. I’d rather be comfortable and ready to disembark quickly should the need ever arise. I have more than one warm-up suit that fits my style.

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Voodoo is not as scary as I had imagined!

Fifty-some years ago I took a Comparative Religion class in college; Vodun (Voodoo) was not one of those studied. It’s interesting to know that today, of the 60 million followers of this religion, many of them find it compatible with Christianity. My guide said that it was not uncommon for locals of Benin and Togo and perhaps Cuba, Brazil and Haiti to practice both!

There are many deities that serve particular functions and while as a Catholic I knew that Saints were not gods but they too “helped” out. Like St. Anthony and St. Christopher. The first helped us find things and the latter was supposedly keeping us safe while in a car or travelling. This religion also has a primary God that is immensely powerful. And these other gods are used as a liason for the Vodun followers.

Putting a hex on someone is not all that different from the concept of heaven and hell. The whole idea is that goodness can get rid of the evil. As a Catholic I know I felt threatened by eternal damnation a few times.

Many rituals are performed by the Vodun priests and I’m guessing that those not familiar with some of the Western religions would find more than a few similarities just as elaborate. While dance and animal sacrifices are less common we too revere many souls that have passed. Followers of voodoo believe the dead are thought to walk among the living during the dance of hooded Egunguns.

My guide from RoyalToursBenin has the facial scarring believed to connect him to his ancestors.

Sticking pins in a doll meant to personify someone was not mentioned on my tour. Hollywood has painted a dark side of Voodoo that is not accurate. It is called hoodoo! One big difference to me in particular is their veneration of snakes. They are important religious symbols and therefore respected. There is a temple of pythons in Ouidah where they slither around in abundance. They are not fed but are let out once a week or so to find their meal. Needless to say I did not go there. I was taught that a horrible snake in the Garden of Eden messed up big time!

Above all, Voodoo is a religion practiced by millions of people around the world.

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Benin, Past and Present

I did not visit all of Benin as it was ill advised to travel North. But I was fortunate to have a driver/guide for a few days allowing me to learn much about the history, the culture and daily life.

Benin, formerly known as the Dahomey Kingdom, was depicted in The Woman King, a movie based on the African female warriors during the 17th-19th centuries. They were a warring society whose economy was based on conquest, slave labor and trade with Europe. Their art was highly regarded and has been in the news today regarding repatriation. But most of all they are and were notable for their practice of Voodoo. They gained their independence in 1960 from France.

In another blog I will share my understanding of Vodun (Voodoo is the Hollywood version).

I was captivated by their art: the carvings, the design of their fabrics, the paintings, and the sculptures.

Today’s economy is based on both agriculture and mining. They grow enough food to be self sufficient with fruit, yams and rice. One of the biggest crops is cotton. But I was surprised to hear that they export it and then buy all their beautiful materials from Thailand; however, the designs are created in Benin. The tailors in Benin are both men and women and the colors truly amazing. You will often see couples dressed the same as they scoot by on their motorcycles. A Sunday in Benin is eye candy for sure!

Unfortunately they are still listed as one the least developed countries of the World and their literacy rate is insufficient and the mortality rate for both mothers and infants is too high. I was most upset with the number of people on motorcycles without helmets. Most of the population can not afford cars or more than one helmet for their bike. I saw way too many families traveling together, often with the youngest wrapped to the mother’s back with a scarf and no helmet.

Benin is in the process of growing tourism in Cotonou where the waterfront close to the airport has miles of empty beaches and no big hotels yet! They are also developing the controversial Marina Project designed to enlighten people about the transatlantic slave trade with a hotel spa, a replica of a slave ship, memorial gardens, craft market and an arena for Vodun performances.

Today most organized tour operators offer a 3 country visit including Ghana and Togo in addition to Benin.

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Benin Blog by BARD

While confined to home due to Covid I decided to explore another frontier: Artificial Intelligence! Is it bad? Is it good? Will it replace me? Is it to be trusted? I’ve been hearing all these concerns and more. Granted, it is still a work in progress but isn’t everything?

My next trip as the Aging Adventurer will take me to Benin and Togo. I have my visa, my rough itinerary, my hotel in Benin and have been corresponding with the hotel staff about hiring a driver to take me on a few tours. Where exactly? I thought I’d “prompt” BARD and see what my trip was all about. What BARD recognized about the aging adventurer was my “old age” and hence a summary of my trip that has yet to be taken:

My Trip to Benin as an Older Woman

I chose to visit Benin because I was interested in learning more about its history and culture. Benin is a small country in West Africa that was once the center of the powerful Dahomey Kingdom. The kingdom was known for its powerful army, its elaborate court rituals, and its practice of human sacrifice. Today, Benin is a republic with a rich cultural heritage.

Voodoo, also known as Vodun, is a religion practiced by the Aja, Ewe, and Fon peoples of Benin. It is a polytheistic religion that worships a pantheon of deities, including gods, spirits, and ancestors. Voodoo is also a religion of magic and ritual, and its practitioners use a variety of techniques to communicate with the spirits, including drumming, dancing, and sacrifice.Voodoo is a complex and fascinating religion that has been practiced in Benin and Togo for centuries. It is a religion that emphasizes the importance of community, healing, and the power of the spirits.

I had a wonderful time traveling to Benin as an older woman. The people were incredibly friendly and welcoming, and I never felt unsafe or discriminated against. I was able to experience all that Benin had to offer, from its ancient ruins to its vibrant cities.

If you’re an older woman thinking about traveling to Benin, I highly recommend it! Here are a few tips to help you plan your trip:

Do your research: Before you go, be sure to do some research on Benin’s history, culture, and customs. This will help you make the most of your trip.

Pack light: Benin is a hot country, so you’ll want to pack light clothing. You’ll also want to pack a hat, sunscreen, and insect repellent.

Be prepared for culture shock: Benin is a very different country from the United States, so be prepared for some culture shock. This is especially true if you’re traveling to a rural area.

Be open-minded: Benin is a beautiful and diverse country with a rich culture. Be open to new experiences and new people.

I had an amazing time traveling to Benin as an older woman. I would highly recommend it to anyone who is looking for a unique and unforgettable travel experience.

How about that, looks like I’m going to have a wonderful trip! I’ll do a comparison when I actually go and return. Sorry about no pics, as BARD is not able to show you pictures. It can only describe them to you.

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Covid Caught up with Me

I was diligent, I was cautious and I was a bit of a control-freak. I thought I just had “trust” issues but one of my daughters assured me it had to do more with “control” issues.
For three years I avoided Covid. I have had 5 avoidance vaccines and I still get my groceries delivered. I haven’t returned to the gym and I wear a mask anytime I go into a crowded space, like airplanes and airports.

Last week I had a few medical appointments like PT and veterinary visits with my dog. Of course, I wore a mask, but many others that were in my space did not! Everybody seemed to think the threat was over. I knew differently as one of my sisters had recently contracted it by sitting next to a coughing stranger on a plane. She is much nicer than me because she excused him by saying she understood he wanted to get home. I hate being sick and am less nice than usual when it happens (I hear the snickering).

 

To make matters worse both of my daughters were in Europe, and my sister who cooks and helps with my dog was in Florida for a softball tournament.  I immediately had a virtual meeting with my health care service and was advised to reconsider taking Paxlovid.  However, it was available should I struggle with breathing.  Okay, that meant no workouts, no long walks with my dog and a reprieve from PT!  But it also meant no Pickleball or travel.  I had to cancel a trip to Naples to stay with another sister who has the best guest house, amenities and food.  Oh poor me! 

I felt blessed though in many ways.  My son-in-law stopped by daily to take my dog walking; my daughters sent a care package from Amazon Fresh and sisters and friends checked in on me regularly.  I’m still mad though that I got sick. I’m better at being well and out and about.

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By the Numbers

When I count the countries I’ve visited I may “cheat” a little. For example, I consider Scotland, England, Northern Ireland and Wales all separate, not just UK which would only be one! I also include some Republics otherwise I might only have 195 as travel destinations! Interestingly there are 254 Country flags in the World….of course, 26 of them are from Afghanistan.

By my most recent count (my way) Mauritius was number 150 of flag bearing places that I was lucky enough to enter. I was rewarded by this amazing welcome.

There have been many repeat journeys to various spots on the globe. For example I’ve been to China, Australia, Mexico, Peru, France and Canada at least 10 times. My list of five or more journeys include the countries of South Africa, Germany, Italy, Argentina and Japan.

My passports include way too many stamps that are identical from countries entered at least two times.

Which one is my favorite? I get asked that frequently and my go to answer is the one I hope to get to next. However, Antarctica is definitely one of the nature’s finest art galleries, Bhutan really is a happy place and more than a few have people checking out their maps: Lesotho, Brunei, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Liechtenstein, Andorra, Suriname and Azerbaijan.

I think travel is one of the greatest continuing educations for the elderly…at least for me!

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The Responsible Role of the Tourist

On my latest long trip I watched a documentary on the plane entitled The Last Tourist. It makes one think about the future of travel and whether or not we are destroying places economically or environmentally. I wished I had done a little more research beforehand but I think I lucked out!  I have always tried to book local lodging instead of chain hotels that are headquartered elsewhere.  And rather than buy souvenirs I tend to tip the local workers.  I found out years ago that some of the mementos I was buying were manufactured in some other part of the world.  I realize that there are items to buy like art or clothing that you know are  created domestically, but since I live in a small apartment I’m happy with memories.

I booked a resort because the island of Mauritius offers so many water activities and having opportunities to engage in these various endeavors right at the site is easy. And the LUX brand of resorts happen to be local.   Saving the planet for the future is another concern and the Grand Gaube Resort has made a serious commitment by joining with a community initiative to make their island more respectful of people and environment.  There was no plastic.  Their goals: To be recognized as an eco-friendly company in our country; To work in harmony with nature and the community towards a sustainable and inclusive future for Mauritius; To have our name listed alongside those who will be creating a greener environment for present and future generations.

While my main interest in going to my 150th country was to swim with the dolphins, I realize there are concerns about safety. The various charters all claim this is a safe activity for both the dolphins and the humans since it is in the wild and only takes place for two hours each day. However, upon seizing this opportunity and seeing how many boats and swimmers were involved I’m not sure that it was. My personal experience was exciting, scary and a little bit overwhelming…probably for the dolphins as well. There were 25 boats in the area along with about 5 kayaks. There were only two tourists on my boat and the plan was for us to sit on the edge with our fins dangling and masks on and jump quickly when told as the dolphins were under us at that time.

My first effort was not successful as I was so excited that I forgot to put the snorkel in my mouth and proceeded to drink seawater laced with gasoline. Choking and coughing left me no time to look around. The guide hurriedly got me back on the boat. The second attempt was futile as well since the mask slipped off my face. Ignoring these signs I tried once more. I was ready, set and when given the command, almost landed on one. I decided to spend the rest of the time on the boat watching as they dove, swam by and delighted me much more with the distance between us.

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My Untimely Trip to Tahiti

At first I checked out small cruise ships but could not find one without a steep penalty for a solo booking. I have never been to French Polynesia and due to the number of silly Facebook quizzes requiring a trip to Tahiti to get a point, I decided I would go and take a ferry from one island to another.

While the flight price was reasonable, the hotel and food were surprisingly expensive. I booked the hotel thinking I was getting breakfast but found out that no food or drink was included; however a hefty daily resort fee was added to the bill.

And it was rainy season! I knew that but decided to indulge anyway. The hotel did offer umbrellas for use free of charge…and beach towels.

I decided to stay in Papeete (thank goodness a friend taught me how to pronounce it before arriving) and do day trips from there.  Besides a great walk on the beach and a long walk to a convenience store to buy something to eat in the room, I also took the hotel bus into the town proper and walk until I got lost and had a great quiche at a local restaurant.

Another day I signed up for a group tour of Moorea where a boat took us on a tour of the island, stopping for a great encounter with sand sharks and manta rays and then landing on a small private island for a barbeque and a cultural show. The musicians that accompanied us loved their job and kept all of us delighted the entire day. The trip to and from Moorea was on the public ferry where I actually met the pilots who flew me back home the next day!

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