Eating in Ethiopia

American fast food franchises are ubiquitous  around the world but my last two trips were to countries without any.  However, there are many places in the city of Addis Ababa where one could get burgers and pizza.  But why would you when you could enjoy their national dish of injera with wot and other condiments like beets and rice?

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I had recently watched the CNN’s Anthony Bourdain episode when he visited Ethiopia with celebrity chef Marcus Samuelssen so was not surprised by the tasty cuisine.

In the villages one could easily find both coffee (said to have originated in this country just like humans!) and beer.  The alcohol was advertised with a can on a stick with a white rag wrapped around it, usually sticking out the window of the hut. While I did not indulge in this I did try the coffee.

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Traveling in the Time of Terrorism

People have asked if I’m afraid to be traveling now, especially when some of the countries I visit are not always the road most travelled.  Some would argue that as a “Westerner” I’m safer going to the unusual places. And then there are those who would be correct in saying that violent extremists have been around for a long time.

My first foray into such a world came in October of 2001.  I had planned a Round the World trip for months, was packed and ready to go when 9/11 happened.   My itinerary was centered on sites I considered Great Wonders of the World like the pyramids, Victoria Falls, the wildlife of Africa, Agra, Mount Everest, the Petronas Towers and the Great Barrier Reef.  The solidarity with the USA was never stronger, in each and every one of the places I visited.

Rick Steves, a famous travel advisor, wrote “there’s an important difference between fear and risk!”  And I believe that to be true.  I do fear any sort of violence and greatly admire the French, the Bostonians, the Brits, the Lebanese, and all those facing  terrorism and destruction in their countries for declaring that they will not let this horror change their lives.

I am also a realist and know that we all are changed by this, and that terrorism will not ever be entirely wiped out.  I mourn for those who have suffered and hope that I will not experience this first hand but I will continue to travel.

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There are definitely a few things I will  practice in order to decrease risks.  Because of incidents like Amman,  Mumbai and Male, I stay in smaller local hotels.  I avoid assemblies of people protesting;  I respect local customs and dress and act accordingly. I expect there to be delays now going through security and strangers rummaging through my suitcase, but it’s really about those wonderful new experiences, new sites and incredible people on the horizon.

 

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Utopia?

It certainly is as close to perfection as any country I’ve visited. While there is some controversy about touring in Bhutan such as the mandated “per person spend” I found it to be worth every penny. Staying in locally owned hotels and using travel experts that live in the country certainly add to the cultural experience. I’m not opposed to big international travel agencies but like it when the locals benefit the most.

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Bhutan, a small country on the southeast slope of the Himalayas is governed by a constitutional monarchy. Much of Bhutanese law has been designed to promote Gross National Happiness, which basically means promoting and preserving their culture instead of giving in to the western ways. My brief experience here found the people to be happy, content and proud of their country and it’s traditions.

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During my research stage I read a raving review about a particular travel agency in Bhutan on Trip Advisor.  What caught my eye was the fact that they were willing to offer a driver and guide during the dates I wanted, and during my correspondence with them by email I discovered that they were flexible about the daily schedule as well. It appears that most of the companies offer a similar itinerary for their 7 day cultural trip.  I went with the Bhutan Travel Company and they added much more hiking to my delight! And as important, they were much less expensive than companies from the outside (saving $4000).

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Serendipity

Bhutan’s culture is riddled with legends, folklore and a colorful history.  So it certainly was no surprise to me to find it lucky as well.  From the images of famous monks mysteriously showing up on the rocky sides of cliffs to the phallic symbols painted on houses, one never knew what to expect next.   (both photos below show natural images of famous monks)

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The Divine Madman is a personal favorite, also known as Lama Drukpa Kunley, and politely called the “fertility saint”. He is credited for enlightening many with his crazy methods and his penis is known as “the thunderbolt of flaming wisdom”. I was able to witness two young couples who came to the temple honoring him in the Punakha Valley who were ceremoniously seeking intervention.

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While our tour included many monasteries and temples there was always something special at the end of the hike to the summit. The Nolanda Monastic School that houses around 100 young monks was both fun and uplifting! After looking in on the scholastic exercises, such as repetitive chants and debating, we were invited to tea with the head master. We sat for almost an hour, discussing current events, comparative religions and life in a monastery atop a high hill.

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On the final day of my visit was the hike up to Tiger’s Nest.  I think most everyone saves it for last as they are acclimatized to the altitude.  As I am an eager hiker, my guide warned me against running and to stay on the inside, especially if a horse and rider were to be passed. Apparently there have been incidents where tourists have fallen to their death.

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The path was tiring, sometimes precarious and quite scenic, when one wasn’t watching their feet.  I was on my way down and stopped for a minute to take another photo when my eyes took in a friend from Argentina who was on his way up.  I screamed his name in recognition loud enough for his friends further down the trail to come running up, thinking he had dropped off the side of the cliff or something.  What a small world indeed!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Culture Shock

The Bhutanese diet in higher altitudes consists mainly of red rice, some meat like chicken or dried pork, and  vegetables or soup with chili peppers and cheese.  It is a treat to eat the first couple of days and then even I tired of it a bit, especially when it was served at both lunch and dinner.  Our guide said their typical breakfast also included the red rice.  It certainly provides proper sustenance but our American tastes demand a little more variety.

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My companion on the Bhutan trip was not a good sport about the meals. His taste buds prefer processed foods without any nutrients. We were both surprised to see some of the ceremonial food offerings left on an altar in a Buddhist Monastery.

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Some of it was remarkably similar to my friend’s junk food!

Then there was the issue of slow traffic….there is not one traffic light in the country, not even in the largest city, Thimphu, the capital.  There are many cows on the road including the poor one that fell from the hillside above.

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And the fact that they don’t allow any technical climbing in their Himalayas, set my friend back too….when he told the guide how much money they could make with this type of trek Yeshey calmly told him that Bhutan wants to preserve its environment and its society!

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Barking in Bhutan

Dogs are everywhere and they seem to belong to everyone. They did not seem aggressive but I was warned about walking at night, not sure if it was because I would not see what I was stepping in or if they might be too frisky.  The government has an active sterilization and vaccination program attempting to keep control of the population.

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Dogs keep a respectable distance, but do not refuse a kind gesture or morsel of food.  The picnic lunch one day proved to be a bonanza for the nearby pack.  Yeshey, our superlative guide, took a few moments preparing all the left-overs by mixing the big pot with his hand and then dishing it out in separate mounds circumventing our blanket.

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And while many dogs roam the streets and tourist sites they often join a family pet at meal times.  One woman said her dog routinely invited eight or nine dogs over for dinner!

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The Humane Society International has a program called “Become a Street Dog Defender” which provides sterilization, vaccination and treatment.

 

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Gross National Happiness

How does one measure this? I am just back from a great visit to Bhutan and by my standards, it was one happy trip!

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While this is a philosophical approach to governing a nation, it seems to be working. The present king’ s father developed this plan with Buddhist principles in mind and not the Western way. He put forth the following goals: sustainable development, preservation and promotion of cultural values, conservation of the natural environment and good governance.  While not a political analyst, I am impressed with what I witnessed.  They also soak up more greenhouse gases than they emit.

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I will be blogging about my full week of adventures in the next two posts. What a wonderful place!

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Out Back

I’m moved again this past weekend as my sister and brother-in-law want their house back. Granny flat, in-law suite, refurbished garage could all describe my new “digs” but my landlady refers to it as  “out back”.

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I was lucky to find a place in my old neighborhood, close to family and dog friendly. While this place is usually inhabited by the owner’s son, he is currently studying out of the city and hopefully for me, enjoying it enough to stay there for at least the school year. It definitely was designed with a young bachelor in mind as it has 2 TV’s, a full-sized refrigerator, a microwave and a small hot-plate. Now I have an excuse not to bake or to have people over for dinner!

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Only problem was that I sprained one of my toes….hopefully it will not hinder my Bhutan trek.

 

 

 

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Different Standards at Same Brand

This past year I stayed at one of the worst motels ever and one of the best….and they were both branded as Howard Johnson’s. The horrific one was during a road trip with my dog so my choices were limited.  The one I found was not even to my dog’s liking.  She sniffed both beds and whined.  The odors of urine and smoke hung like clouds over the room. The linens were stained, worn and stinky.  The night could not have possibly passed quickly enough.

A few months later, while in Shanghai I stayed at a Howard Johnson hotel…perhaps that was the difference: one a motel and one a hotel?  Anyway this one was impeccable, almost luxurious.  Interestingly enough, they were both the same price!

 

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the Five for 2015

It’s getting more difficult to amass 5 new countries each year…it is uncommon now to get more than one in a single trip. This year with tickets purchased already for the remaining months, I will have managed to do it: Lebanon (had I done proper research, might have flown or ferried to Cyprus), Dominican Republic ( in order to fly to Haiti I would have had to fly back to NYC!), Bhutan, Ethiopia and Azerbaijan (could not go through land borders when I was in Georgia or Armenia).

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