Is this City on your Bucket List?

Unfortunately due to restrictions and conflicts people are often afraid to visit, which is a real shame because the history, the culture, the people and the food make this city a real gem, one to be greatly appreciated.

Jerusalem:

The Old City and its maze of ancient pathways is confusing and nearly impossible to describe; it is literally a plethora of intertwining alleyways full of shops and ancient treasures ranging from hundreds of years before Christ, to the Middle Ages. The Old City is divided into separate Christian, Arab, Armenian and Jewish quarters.

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We were approached by many aggressive Arabs wanting to be our tour guides, but I had already agreed to utilize “David” (real name Hamdi) an Arab-Israeli. David took us on a whirlwind tour of the Old City of Jerusalem. He steered us away from some of the more aggressive shop keepers while positively keeping us from being bored. He was moving almost too fast for me!

First we saw the Wailing Wall (also known as the Western Wall) the only remaining part of the Temple of Jerusalem which was destroyed at least twice throughout history. It is now the most holy place of the Jewish faith where people come to pray and insert prayers into the cracks of the wall.

We too left our prayers in the wall. These shrines are heavily secured with checkpoints similar to what one experiences at the airport including metal detectors and baggage scanning machines.

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Then we visited the Dome of the Rock also called the Temple Mount or the Mosque of Omar, which was constructed directly on top of the Temple of Jerusalem. This is where Mohammed is believed to have ascended up to heaven on his horse. It is a fantastic mosque with intricate mosaic tiles reminiscent of Istanbul mosques. Again, lots of security, in fact one could not bring in any Christian mementos one may have purchased.

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After the Temple Mount, we left the Old City through the Lion’s Gate to hike an intensive pathway to the top of the Mount of Olives where Jesus did much of his praying and teaching during his earthly life. Some of the olive trees there are purported to be 2000 years old.

I’m not the best fact-checker so I hope I don’t offend people with my memories or historical info I’m interlacing into my story.

The Church of Mary Magdalene (built under Czar Alexander in 1888) celebrates where Mary saw Jesus’ ascension into heaven. It was a very tough climb but not nearly as dramatic as our trek in Petra (Petrified in Petra) and well worth it for the amazing panorama of the entire city!

Reentering the Old City once again, we continued on our religious pursuit and walked the Via Dolorosa where Jesus carried the cross before being crucified. Essentially this path was a series of 14 monuments leading to the rock on which He was crucified.

David’s tour culminated as all tours in the area do, with a chance for shopping. My daughter Molly exceeded her expectations, buying gem stones called “Stones of Solomon”, and other mementos. The shopkeepers kept us supplied with mint tea and promises of bargains galore.

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After a brief respite we ventured back to the fortress on foot. We stayed off public transportation (since we feared that was where much of the violence occurs in this region) and this time entered through the Damascus Gate, one of the nine gates of the Old City, and definitely the busiest as it takes you directly into the Arab market.

As the crowds pulse, merchants bring in new supplies and shoppers leave with their share of candy, spices, and clothing.

We shuffled through just as the call to prayer sent some scrambling. It lasted long enough for us to make it through to the Christian area where we heard the bells ringing as well. The sounds came from all sides, confusing us while it mesmerized us. It had the effect of making the bustle and hustle around us seem mute.

We continued hiking until we found Mt. Zion. There, besides visiting King David’s tomb, we also saw the site of the Last Supper.

A group of devout Korean Christians were singing, praying and were totally entranced in their pilgrimage. They served to remind us how important this city is to everyone. We could not help but feel spiritually connected to many religions and humanity in general.

 

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Not Planning another Road Trip Anytime Soon

In fact, am happy to be close to the beach, within walking or biking distance of most places I need to go! My move in my small car stuffed with bags (boxes took up too much room) from Oak Harbor WA to San Diego CA took  about 3 days although I’m sure I could have done it in two if I hadn’t lived on “island time” for the last 2 and 1/2 years.

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It was not a particularly pleasant trip for me and my dog, but I did see some incredible sites especially from Seattle to Redding CA. The Oregon scenery along Interstate 5 is amazing and almost worth the drive. Was reminded that I could be doing the Pacific Coast Trail on foot and it would take much longer!

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Reinventing oneself in Retirement

Moving to Panama was like going off to college. Every year more and more people, a majority of them recent retirees, come to the small village of Boquete  eager for a renewal of their lives.  That first year one is exposed to many  different classes and opportunities.  You can start working on your major immediately or explore the various options.

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I met people who were eager to learn about the area’s agriculture so they could become hobby farmers: producing coffee, vegetables or herbal medicines.  Others came to learn the language or refine their art.

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During my month visit while staying in a hotel suite I decided to sign up for a bread-making class. Mind you, I’ve never been much of a baker and didn’t really plan on starting now, but I did like good food and figured bakers of  designer bread would be good people to know.  The syllabus said we’d be eating the results along with a delicious lunch with wine.  It was a good start for me, meeting delightful friends with the most interesting backgrounds.  The “Rye Guy” practiced law in his earlier life and now is proud owner of Morton’s Bakehouse and professor extraordinaire.  His wife is an incredible artist, painting and teaching  silk painting (both wearable and fine art) in her studio in Bajo Boquete.

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With a  plethora of upper classmen and teachers this community, both locals and ex-pats, is filled with talent and star power. The Tuesday morning market is similar to the Commons Area of any school.  Everyone mills around buying or selling various products, gossiping and catching up on the latest news often times with a symposium discussing a current issue of significance for residents.

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When I finally rented a casita I was asked to join a special “sorority”  called, in jest, the chicas.  It is composed of single women who meet once a month to celebrate birthdays and other holidays.  Not only are they a great support group for one another, they also sustain a charity committed to local girls getting advanced education. I thought I was so brave moving to Panama alone, only to discover that there were over 50 women before me who had done so with the greatest aplomb.

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http://www.rabkindesign.com/Rabkin_Design/About_Me.html

https://www.facebook.com/MortonsBakehouse

 

 

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Not the Usual Trip

But on second thought, it seems as though I’ve repeated it  a few times in the past four years! I’m “moving” again.  It is reminiscent of travel as I don’t take any more than I can get on a plane or in a small car.   I’ve discovered that baggage can weigh you down a long time ago. Unfortunately I’ve not learned to live longer than a month without a few more comforts, conveniences and maybe even a few luxuries….meaning that I will end up replenishing supplies once I’ve settled in. Hoping my daughters remember the times I donated furniture etc. to them;-)

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I am driving my used car with over 100,000 miles from Oak Harbor WA to San Diego, CA with my dog and all of our stuff in the trunk, under the seat, on the seats and hopefully not on my lap.  It was funny what seemed to matter when deciding what would go and what would be given away.  For some reason I am attached to a TV tray and all the dog toys; however the TV, printer, pots and pans will go in first, then as many clothes that can fit into my various suitcases along with my yoga mat and of course any left over bottles of wine.

San Diego to Boquete to Oak Harbor and back to San Diego:

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We won’t be doing any sightseeing other than what appears on the I-5 corridor as I tend to be pretty goal oriented with this type of trip.  I left San Diego about four years ago and I’m excited to be going home and hope my wanderlust will hold off for a while.

 

 

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Best Places to Retire….

My parents had a home in Ajijic, Mexico for a while, my sister lived in Mexico for years and my daughter lived and worked in Hong Kong for almost 3 years. These inspirations encouraged me to try living elsewhere too.

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A few years after retiring,  I realized that my residence in San Diego was confining in that I could not afford to travel as much as I would like.    I looked at my home as part of my retirement “plan” so selling it and moving might afford me something like what was promised on that show, “International House Hunters”.  Living less expensively but with the same life style was intriguing.

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I busied myself with hours  of online research. In many of the sites Panama was listed as a top choice.  Years before I had visited Panama City,  the canal and Colon and actually met a woman who was selling property to foreigners. However my new discoveries led to the mountainous area of Boquete in the Chiriqui Province. Supposedly on a clear day, one could see both the Pacific and the Caribbean if one was on top of Volcan Baru!  While technically a rain forest, it promised warmth, friendliness, and a welcoming of ex-pats from all nations.  Further study indicated that there were many micro-climates in the area (even though I wasn’t really sure what that meant!)

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I planned on visiting this area multiple times before the big move. I planned to go for two weeks in June which offers up the worst weather;  then going back for a full month in August before making the final decision. Unfortunately I tore my Achilles tendon the end of May!  The doctors insisted I should not travel with a cast on my leg, but as I buy non-refundable tickets I was not about to change my plans….the crutches added a whole new dimension.

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As part of my extended plan I purchased a book by a woman who successfully made the move years before with everything one might need to know included within the covers.  I also joined an online community forum that allowed me to “meet” some of the characters I would encounter in the near future.

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I went, I enjoyed it, and I met many wonderful people.  I discovered that I was brave, tough and resilient, not that I expected anything less but reconfirming.  There are so many stories connected with this adventure and I will be sharing them periodically over the next few months. Unfortunately I only stayed about 15 months, mostly because I discovered I was not ready “to settle down”.

 

 

 

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travel mishaps

I’ve had more than a few misadventures over the years and they usually make good stories after a few years or so. It’s been about 20 years for this one, and I can now share it with a frivolity of sorts.  It was my last trip with my ex-husband and we were in London for a week to see a few shows and some matches at Wimbledon. Due to the extended stay we rented a small flat. When our landlady gave us instructions she also explained unequivocally that Sunday was her day off and she was not to be bothered for any reason.

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I liked to run first thing in the morning and usually was successful in encouraging my mate to join me, mostly because I have a dreadful sense of direction and was certain I would not make it back to the neighborhood.  However, as the week went on, he was more and more reluctant.  That last day I ran alone. When I returned I rang the buzzer, meaning he would have to step into the hall to release the front door.  Unfortunately, the apartment door closed behind his nakedness.  He ran into the shared W.C. and stayed there….it was Sunday.

OK, I may have waited for a while……… but eventually I was the one to endure the wrath of the landlady and let hubby back into the room.

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An Oasis Amid the Mayhem in the Middle East

Lebanon has endured war with its neighbors and within its own boundaries.  It is a country made up of diverse groups like Shia Muslims, Sunni Muslims, Christians, Druze and many refugees from the region. Such conflict is always devastating to the land and economy. While recovery is difficult the Lebanese want peace and prosperity.  Tourism and commerce were a big part of the plan until the Syrian civil war erupted in 2011.

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Hussein Abdallah, the owner of Lebanon Tour and Travel assured me that the presence of road blocks, armed military and police, an occasional missile launcher and bunkers were probably overdone but did serve to keep tourists and residents feeling safe.

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It is a shame more people are not visiting this lovely country and its many World Heritage sites. I decided not to visit border areas in the North or South as a precaution. Common sense is a good ally of all tourists and I hope that regional troubles stay clear of these incredible treasures!

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The first all day tour took me to Jeito Grottos, limestone caves located north of Beirut. They are filled with majestic stalactites and stalagmites, a sight too incredible for words and unfortunately they don’t allow photos! The whole experience is well done from the cable car to the train to the boat ride.  Next up was Byblos, one of the oldest Phoenician cities with a retired professor taking me through the site. He even used the ancient alphabet to write my name, my kind of memento.

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The ruins at Anjar are remains of a city built in the 8th century and only rediscovered about the time I was born! Lucky for me, the young guide was an Armenian Lebanese who lives in the area and is an archeologist.  He took time to explain how the Armenians ended up in this country and made certain I was able to recognize the cedar tree.

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The temples at Baalbek were featured briefly in my post about food and wine, but I hardly did them justice. They were known as Heliopolis during Roman rule and are some of the best preserved in the country.  It is a huge complex, and always surprising to me to see visitors climbing, jumping and touching.

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I enjoyed time in the city of Beirut as well, walking great distances and just looking, noticing the number of destroyed buildings from the civil war like this Holiday Inn and then meandering through the newly renovated areas.

 

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24 hours in Dubai

I had no intention of visiting Dubai again, but since my airline of choice did not fly to Beirut I had to do a pit stop.  Timing of the connection to Middle East Airlines dictated that I spend a day and night in this opulent city. Cranes are a permanent feature here as it continues to scatter across the desert. My first visit years ago I actually tried to find the cultural aspects of this grandiose metropolis. I visited the small museum and checked out the old souks.

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Most people come here to shop.  The number of purchases one sees crammed into the overhead bins of a plane defy logic.  The original souks are no longer crowded as everyone chooses the huge mega malls where they can eat, be entertained and buy STUFF.

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These pictures are of the Emirates Mall with the ski slope and winter wonderland.

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The Mall of Dubai, the largest in the world, attached to the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building in the world has its own special features like the giant aquarium and olympic sized ice-rink.

Unfortunately for me, my day in town was on a Friday, the Muslim holy day, which meant that the metro system was down until 1PM.  The tourist map handed out by the hotel made the city look walkable; it is not!  With blisters on my feet, I resorted to taxis and spent a small fortune.

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(I would never lie like Pinnochio…I am more comfortable with slight exaggerations.)

It might take a while but one can find a bit of Dubai that has not been overtaken by bigger, better and best.  Crossing the canal, watching the fishermen, admiring the mosques, and of course, communicating with the people representing more nationalities than one would think possible are all still visible.

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Lebanese Libations (and cuisine)

It comes as no surprise that the temple of Bacchus (god of agriculture and wine) in Baalbek is the best preserved and largest Roman temple of its size anywhere in the world.  It is more colossal than the Parthenon. However, the ancient ruins and other important sites of this small beautiful country will be covered in another post. The reason I always wanted to visit Lebanon was because I loved their food and heard about their wine!

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While their countryside is mountainous up to the alluring coast on the Mediterranean, they manage to produce great vegetables, grains and grapes.  They prepare delicious food with names I can’t pronounce or remember when called upon to order.  Think tabbouleh, hummus, baba ghanoush, kebbeh and sambusac…..similar to tapas but fresh, tasty and different from my normal diet and probably much healthier.

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The production of wine dates back about 5000 years but Château Ksara in the Beqaa Valley was founded in 1857 by Jesuit Priests to continue the great tradition. Legend has it that a fox that was killing chickens was chased by the priests into an ancient underground cave with about 2 kilometers of tunnels that had been historically used by families hiding from the Ottomans and for storage throughout centuries.  It  serves as the wine cellar today.

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Countries Not Visited Yet

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I am often asked which country I like best and my usual response is “the one I’ve not been to yet”.  I realize this is a cop-out of sorts and I really do have favorites but all for different reasons: such as the best food, the cheapest nice hotels, people who really like Americans, or easy transport from one place to another.  Of course, there are the incredible sites, the monuments reminding one of the history, the natural beauty and one would be remiss not to mention,” it’s my first time seeing all this, taking it all in!”  I have many favorites and all for valid if not varied reasons.

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Today’s post will recount the countries I have not visited in Europe. There are only 4  if you don’t count Greenland and Crete.   I have tried to get to both Albania and Belarus for a couple of years now but can’t find a break on air tickets or the need for visas; as of now you need a transit visa to go through Russia and there aren’t many ways to get to Belarus, although I think one could probably take an overnight bus from Warsaw (not high on my shortlist at the moment). The other two countries are Andorra and Malta and island nations are never easy for the country collector who is not a sailor.

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Each year it gets tougher and more expensive to add 5 new nations, but I do like the challenge! BTW, I’m off for about 10 days to visit 2 countries…and one is a new!

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